<![CDATA[Innovative Aqua Systems, Inc.

<![CDATA[Innovative Aqua Systems, Inc. - Blog]]>Sun, 20 May 2012 18:56:34 -0800Weebly<![CDATA[Filling your pool costs]]>Sat, 05 Feb 2011 12:14:59 -0800http://king-fin.com/2/post/2011/02/filling-your-pool-costs1.html

In most parts of the US water usage costs are less, during curtain months of the year, usually the winter or early spring months. This may also be when your water authority asses how much they will charge you for your upcoming sewer usage.

In short the more water you use during the months of cheap water unit costs usually the winter or early spring months will increase your water & sewer bill during the summer.

For example from; The City of Phoenix “Sewer fees are based on a percentage of your actual water use for the months of January, February, and March”.

To counter this cost you can request from your water authority a “REQUEST FOR SEWER FEE ADJUSTMENT”.

Call your local water & sewer authority for information before you drain your pool.

Drain & re-fill your pool
The ideal temperature for draining your pool is 75 degrees. After draining your pool, refill it as soon as possible as direct sunlight can damage the plaster in your pool if it's left exposed. Do not let the pool surface dry-out.

Shut off the power to the filtration system at the circuit breaker and turn off the automatic water fill valve.
Locate the main line in-ground clean-out port to access the sanitary sewer line, it should be 3 to 4 inches in diameter

Run a drainage hose from the sewer clean-out port to the pool, and connect it to a submersible pump. Lower the pump into the deepest part of the pool, near the drain. As you begin draining, monitor the water's flow into the clean-out port to ensure that the water doesn't back up. If the water begins to back up, stop draining and contact a professional plumber. (Note: Any hoses or equipment inserted into the sewer line can become contaminated.)

Re-fill the pool to its proper level and check the water for proper chemical levels every day for a week and add chemicals as needed.

One more thing, ENJOY !

]]><![CDATA[Pool Water Chemistry (click here)]]>Sun, 14 Nov 2010 10:36:36 -0800http://king-fin.com/2/post/2010/11/pool-water-chemistry.html

Pool Water Chemistry

pH Level

The pH level of the water is probably the most important factor in maintaining the pool water. All other chemicals and levels depend on proper water pH. PpH is also one of the most neglected levels.

pH is based on a scale from 0-14, 7 is considered to be neutral. Anything below 7 is considered acidic and anything above 7 is considered to be alkaline.

Proper pH level in a swimming pool is around 7.4 to 7.8. (a little alkaline), this level is less irritating to eyes, skin and pool equipment.

If the pH of your pool water is above 7.8, you will want to add an acid to bring the pH into the normal range. If your pH is below 7.2, you will want to add a base to bring the pool water up to the normal range. You can find the proper acids and bases at your pool supply store. Always follow the dosing guidelines to prevent over adjusting.

Some problems with pH below 7.0 include:
·         Pool water becomes acidic
·         Irritation of eyes & skin
·         Chlorine dissipates much faster, requires more chlorine to be effective
·         Plaster pool walls deteriorate, the acidic water etches or dissolves the surface
·         Metal pump and heater parts corrode
·         Stains on walls from metals in water
To raise the pH level, typically you add soda ash (sodium carbonate). Always follow the manufacturer’s dosing instructions.

Some problems with pH above 8.0 include:
·         Scale forms
·         Cloudy, dull pool water
·         Sand filters become clogged due to calcium carbonate deposits
·         Chlorine becomes ineffective, requires more chlorination
·         Irritated eyes and dry or itchy skin
To lower the pH level, typically you add muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) or sodium bisulfate. Always follow the manufacturer’s dosing instructions.

Total Alkalinity (TA)

To maintain proper pH of the pool water the Total Alkalinity must be in the correct range, the Total Alkalinity acts as a buffer or stabilizer for the pH preventing it from being volatile. If your Total Alkalinity is not correct, you will have a very difficult time getting the pH correct.

The normal range for Total Alkalinity in a swimming pool is between 80 and 120 Parts per Million (PPM). The effects of improper Total Alkalinity levels are similar to improper pH levels.

Some problems with Total Alkalinity below 80 ppm include:
·         Plaster pool walls deteriorate, become etched and the surface dissolves
·         Irritation of eyes & skin
·         pH levels erratic
·         Metal pump and heater parts corrode
To raise the Total Alkalinity, typically bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) or soda ash to the water. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s dosing instructions.

Some problems with Total Alkalinity above 120 ppm include:
·         pH levels hard to adjust
·         Chlorine becomes ineffective
·         Cloudy water
To lower the Total Alkalinity, typically muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate is added to the water. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s dosing instructions.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)

Total dissolved solids is basically anything in the pool water that isn’t the water itself. During evaporation of the pool water the only thing that evaporates is the water itself, all the additives, chemicals, dirt particles and everything else stay in the remaining pool water. The accumulation of these things in the water is the Total Dissolved Solids.

The normal range for TDS is 0 t0 2000 parts per million (ppm), anything above 2000 ppm is considered high. With a high TDS level the other pool chemistry levels can be very difficult to properly maintain and chlorine does not work as effectively as it should.

The only feasible way to bring down the TDS level in your pool is to do partial water changes to remove saturated water and add fresh water. If the TDS level is extremely high, it may require a total drain and refill to remedy

]]><![CDATA[Swimming Pool Filter Maintenance (click here)]]>Sun, 14 Nov 2010 10:35:27 -0800http://king-fin.com/2/post/2010/11/swimming-pool-filter-maintenance.html

Swimming Pool Filter Maintenance

Proper pool filter maintenance is vital to keeping your pool water in top condition for the swimming season. There are different types of filters that require different cleaning schedules and methods.

Whenever opening your filter housing, valve assemblies, etc. for maintenance you should include cleaning and recoating all O-rings, seals and gaskets. I recommend a Teflon based lubricant as it will help prolong the life of your O-rings, seals and gaskets.

One very important thing to remember with all types of pool filters is baseline pressure. What is baseline pressure? It is the pressure on the filters gauge with a completely clean or new filter. This pressure helps you determine if your filter is in need of cleaning. When the pool filter pressure rises approximately 10 PSI over the baseline pressure (this is the differential pressure) it’s time to clean your filter.

Diatomaceous Earth (DE):

This type of filter uses an internal fine mesh covered grid coated in diatomaceous earth or DE. The water passes through this grid and the particulates are removed. The DE is a very fine white powder that is actually the exoskeletons of marine plankton. DE filters can filter out particles down to .1 micron resulting in super clear water.

Cleaning a DE filter is a little more labor intensive than a sand filter. Although most DE filters have a backwash feature this is not the proper way to clean it, backwashing does not remove all of the old DE or dirt from the grids. A DE filter should be dismantled and all of the old DE and dirt should be rinsed off of the grids. These grids are very fragile; you should use care when handling them to avoid tearing.

You should use caution not to breath in the fine DE powder when you are handling it and you should properly dispose of the used DE.

Here is the basic process of cleaning a DE filter:
·         Turn off the pool pump. Make sure that the timer is not going to turn it back on while you are cleaning the filter
·         Take the band clamp off of the pool filter and remove the top of the filter housing
·         On most DE filters, the entire grid assembly pulls out of the filter housing. Use caution when lifting this out not to damage it
·         Using a hose spray the grids to remove the old DE and dirt. Use caution not to damage the DE grid
·         Inspect and replace as required the seals and “O” rings where the grid assembly mounts. Lubricate the seals with pool equipment lube
·         Reinstall the grid assembly into the filter housing ensuring a good seal at the connections
·         Reinstall the cover and tighten down the band clamp – Follow the manufacturer’s directions on properly tightening the clamp
·         Turn on the pump and allow the filter to fill with water, open the air release valve if necessary
·         Add the new DE slowly to the pool skimmer, don’t go too fast or you can clog it up. Follow the directions on the package to determine the quantity required for your filter, quantity depends on the square inches of the filter grid

Sand Filter:

This type of filter forces the pool water through a large volume of sand to remove debris and particulates from the water. As the water passes through, the dirt gets captured between the grains of sand. Sand filters are the easiest filters to maintain throughout the swimming season but the downside is that they only filter out particles under about 40 microns which can make it difficult to get your pool water crystal clear. It is recommended that the sand in the filter be replaced approximately every 5 years.

Regular maintenance of a sand filter involves backwashing or running water through the filter backwards to release all of the trapped dirt particles from the sand.

Here is the basic process of backwashing a sand filter:
·         Turn the pump off
·         Extend the backwash hose to a suitable location, this process will release allot of water on the ground so make sure the location can handle a large volume of water
·         Set the backwash valve to the “Backwash” position
·         Turn on the pool pump and let it run until the water exiting the hose is clear – 5 to 10 minutes depending on the amount of trapped dirt
·         Turn off the pump
·         Set the backwash valve back to the normal position
·         Operate pool as usual

Cartridge Filter:

This type of filter uses a pleated paper filter to remove debris and particulates from the water. Cartridge filters typically remove particles up to 10 microns.

Cleaning a cartridge filter is a fairly straightforward process. The typical lifespan of a cartridge is 12 to 18 months depending on water chemistry.

Here is the basic process of cleaning a cartridge filter:
·         Turn off the pool pump. Make sure that the timer is not going to turn it back on while you are cleaning the filter
·         Take the band clamp off of the pool filter and remove the top of the filter housing
·         Remove the filter cartridge(s) from the filter housing, inspect for tears or damage and replace if required
·         Using a garden hose with a spray nozzle, spray the filters from the top down until all of the visible dirt is removed
·         Soak the filter a minimum of 1 hour and up to overnight in a solution of filter cleaner and water or 1 cup of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) and 5 gallons of water.
·         Rinse the filter with a garden hose again to remove the solution
·         Reinstall the cartridge into the housing
·         Reinstall the cover and tighten down the band clamp – Follow the manufacturer’s directions on properly tightening the clamp

]]><![CDATA[New pool plaster, filling & brushing (click here) ]]>Fri, 12 Nov 2010 13:22:05 -0800http://king-fin.com/2/post/2010/11/first-post.html

New pool plaster, filling & brushing

·         When the plaster surface application is complete, begin filling the pool with your garden hose. The end of the hose should be wrapped with a protective cloth to protect the newly plastered surface. The filling process will take approximately 24 hours depending on pool size and water pressure. IMPORTANT: Allow the water to fill the pool continuously until it reaches half way up the width of your waterline tile. DO NOT STOP filling the pool FOR ANY REASON until the water reaches this point! If the filling process is stopped before the water level reaches the tile, a “ring” will be left in the plaster around the perimeter of the plaster surface. Once the pool is full, the water can be shut off, the hose pulled out of the pool and the brushing process can begin.

·         NOTE: if you have a PebbleTec or PebbleSheen surface in your pool, this brushing of the surface during the curing process is not necessary. These two PEBBLE products are applied and subsequently washed free of dust and most particulates.

·         During the first week, it is very important to brush the plaster finish surface (floors, walls, steps and benches) as often as possible. 2-3 times a day for the first 5-7 days. Run the filter continuously until the water is clear. Continuous filtration helps speed up the elimination of plaster dust and can filter out the dust, dirt and other fine particulates that make the water look cloudy.

·         Begin brushing with the brush at the tile line and then forcefully drive the brush downward along the pool walls and across the bottom, in the direction of the main drain. To help clear out the “dust”, it’s more effective to have the main drain open and the skimmer closed down while brushing. IMPORTANT: DO NOT close skimmer off completely. This may cause an insufficient intake of water into the pump, creating a situation know as cavitation.

·         It can take 2 to 3 months before plaster can be considered cured. During this time dirt can attach itself to the plastered surface. Frequent brushing will prevent this. In addition, the brushing will further smooth and “polish” the surface and help to clean the plaster dust out of the pool

·         Newly plastered pools & spas should not be heated for at least 10 days after plaster in complete. Heating spas before plaster is cured will result in discoloration of spa plaster

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